When the clouds cling to the green hills like a soft blanket, as if trying to embrace the raw beauty of the landscape; when the bleating of countless sheep mixes with the sharp cries of seabirds and echoes off wind-beaten cliffs – that’s when you know you’ve arrived.
Far in the wild North, somewhere between the rugged shores of Scotland, the barren beauty of Iceland, and the gentle contours of Norway, are the Faroe Islands – eighteen jagged pearls of untamed splendor.
Even before touching down at Vágar Airport, my expectations – of fog and drizzle – are quietly dispelled. Instead, I’m welcomed by radiant sunshine and a balmy 20 degrees. T-shirt weather in a place more famed for meteorological drama than Mediterranean delight. I don’t hesitate for a second and head straight to one of the most legendary spots: Múlafossur Waterfall.
With unstoppable force, it crashes from a lush green cliff into the ocean below, as if defying gravity itself. Just nearby, in the tiny village of Gásadalur, people sit in the sun at a little café, nibbling on salmon bites and sweet carrot cake – and I can’t help but wonder if paradise might not simply be located here.
From that moment on, nature’s marvels come one after the other like pearls on a string: the surreal sea arch of Drangarnir, looking like it’s been plucked straight from a fantasy film, or the turf-roofed houses of Bøur. Thirty photos later, it dawns on me that this journey has only just begun – and yet, I already feel as though I’ve been here forever.
My base for the coming days is the island’s capital, Tórshavn – a charming gem of a town, where the Hilton Garden Innstands proudly on a hill like a modern-day lighthouse.
The rooms are sleek, warm, and thoughtfully designed, with floor-to-ceiling windows offering panoramic views that take your breath away. My favorite spot? The cozy nook right by the window, where I write, gaze, and marvel – at the sea, the light, and the calm beauty of the rolling green hills.
When a longing for company arises, the elegant lobby beckons – flowing seamlessly into a well-stocked bar and a superb restaurant. Here, over Faroese-style tapas, you can travel the islands with your palate, while the sun refuses to set outside.
Thanks to an ingenious network of bridges, undersea tunnels, and ferries, the entire archipelago lies at your feet – no place is more than an hour’s drive away. But of course there’s no better way to explore than on foot – like the hike up to Eiðiskollur Cliff, where a narrow trail winds from the village of Eiði across a grassy ridge to a lookout tower.
And then, suddenly, you’re there: alone, free, and humbled by the view of Risin og Kellingin, the legendary rock formations that rise from the sea like sentinels of myth.
Onward through the villages of Gjógv and Tjørnuvík, where the surf crashes against dark cliffs with theatrical force, until I reach the harbor town of Klaksvík. From here, the ferry takes me to Kalsoy, shrouded in mist and mystery, haunting and beautiful.
The famed statue of the seal woman may draw some, but the true highlight is the hike to the Kallur Lighthouse. This is where Daniel Craig, as James Bond, stood in No Time to Die – and it takes only one look to understand why the filmmakers chose this dramatic setting to bid him farewell.
Equally stirring is the short but steep hike up Klakkur, the local mountain of Klaksvík, where a sweeping 360-degree panorama leaves every hiker speechless. After so much scenery and exertion, I recharge at Café Fríða with strong coffee and, as the rumors go, the best carrot cake in the Faroes.
But the islands hold even more wonders – like the trail to Bosdalafossur, where you walk along Lake Leitisvatn to a series of cliffside viewpoints that make it look like the lake is floating above the sea. A waterfall pours dramatically down into the ocean, delivering a natural spectacle in its purest form.
Waterfalls are a constant presence here – like the powerful Fossá, or the gentler Kluftáfossur, before the road leads me to Saksun, a postcard-perfect village cradled by mountains and a pale green lagoon. I’m tempted to leap in – but the icy temperature and gusty wind make sure I don’t.
Instead, I retreat, saving my strength for the next day’s climb up the Slættaratindur – the Faroe Islands’ highest peak at 880 meters. Though only 500 vertical meters separate the start from the summit, I’m spent by the time I reach the top. The reward? Views stretching to the edges of the archipelago.
Back at the Hilton Garden Inn, I soak in the private spa – sauna, jacuzzi, sweeping views and absolute bliss – followed by an exquisite dinner at Restaurant Hallartún.
Pork belly with pumpkin, salmon with carrots, cod, steak, and a rich chocolate brownie… I choose everything, made possible by the innovative tapas concept, and pair it all with a fresh Bjór from the tap.
With the sun still high in the sky, I take an evening stroll down to the harbor, where the charm of old Tórshavn unfolds in narrow lanes and turf-roofed houses, timeless and still.
On my final day, I set out once more – this time to the very edge of the world. At least, that’s how it feels when you follow the narrow road from Leynar until it simply ends, beside a herd of sheep. From here, only your feet will take you further – along a barely visible coastal path where I find myself utterly alone. The landscape is jaw-dropping, and the finale is beyond anything I could’ve imagined: a thundering, nameless waterfall plunging into a hidden canyon, where it joins the sea in wild embrace.
And then, it’s time to say goodbye. With one last Oreo cheesecake at Kaffihúsið, a final dish of cod at the Garden Inn, and a lingering look out over the ocean near Kirkjubøur.
I stand on a rock above the crashing waves, the wind dances through the vibrant green grasses, gulls glide silently overhead, and the golden light of the setting sun bathes the land in a surreal peace. Somewhere out there, sky and sea blur into one boundless promise – because those who’ve been here carry these islands with them forever.
And even though it’s hard to leave, I know: this is not the end. Just a quiet “see you again”– to a place that is more than a destination.
This article was written with the kind support of the Hilton Garden Inn Faroe Islands.